27 Wine is as good as life to a man, if it be drunk moderately: what life is then to a man that is without wine? for it was made to make men glad.

Book of Ecclesiastes, The Old Testament

“If that’s how you feel, maybe you’re in the wrong industry”. I had just said, to a wine trade friend, that I thought our industry was in denial. We are complacent, and we are ignoring a gathering storm. We think wine is excluded from the associations of danger and damage that are increasingly attached to alcoholic drinks. And we are coy about discussing the little pinch of vice that is part of the allure of wine – and of every adult pleasure.