Gunma craft sake

For a winelover, discovering sake is like being teleported to a new planet. The balance, aromas, texture and profile are so different – but the richness of culture, heritage, craft, climate and, yes, terroir, is reassuring familiar. Sarah Abbott MW became interested in sake while visiting Japanese wine regions in 2019 (and being treated to some seriously good sake by her hosts). In February this year, she visited the rural, land-locked prefecture of Gunma to find out more about Jetro’s project to supports the many small sake breweries there, and to raise awareness of the ‘terroir’ approach to rice selection and cultivation.