“You don’t go to a strip joint looking for a relationship”, says the young man defending the merits of 2003 at BI’s annual “10 Years on Bordeaux Tasting”. This is becoming the updated image of 2003: a floozy vintage, pneumatic and hot breathed. No extended courtship is necessary to enjoy the charms of these wines: they are ready to roll over and display the full extent of their plump charms if not exactly on the first date, then certainly much sooner than the norm.”
